The smell of buttered bread, fresh samosas, and hot, creamy Irani chai are what you’d find in India’s Persian-style cafes.
These Irani cafes have been a part of Indian culture for over 100 years, with their unique marble tables, old clocks, and checkered floors.
They first appeared in cities like Mumbai and Pune in the 18th and 19th centuries when Persian immigrants came to India from Iran.
Hyderabad, a city in southern India, has many of these cafes too. Persian immigrants brought their style of tea with cream and condensed milk, creating a unique chai culture.
According to BBC, these cafes became popular meeting spots where people from all religions could enjoy tea together, breaking down social and religious barriers.
However, these iconic cafes are now at risk of disappearing. Rising costs, competition from fast-food chains, and changing tastes have led to many shutting down. Two decades ago, Hyderabad had around 450 Irani cafes; now, only 125 remain, says Jaleel Farooq Rooz, owner of The Grand Hotel, a famous Irani cafe.
Mr. Rooz’s grandfather came from Iran in 1951 and took over The Grand Hotel, which was started by 12 Iranians in 1935. He mentions that while they once sold 8,000-9,000 cups of chai daily, now they sell only 4,000.
The growing popularity of fast-food chains, especially after Hyderabad’s IT boom in the 1990s, has been a major challenge for these traditional cafes. Rising real estate prices have also forced many owners to give up their businesses.
Some younger Iranians are no longer interested in running these cafes and prefer other jobs or migrating to other countries.
However, a few are still determined to keep the legacy alive. For example, Syed Mohammed Razak, who manages the Red Rose Restaurant, is using his graphic design skills to promote the business online and attract more customers.
Loyal customers also continue to support these cafes. As one regular customer at The Grand Hotel told the BBC, “Irani tea is a part of my life.
There is nothing like it even today.” Despite the challenges, the love for Irani chai keeps these cafes going.
https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/ckg2rn0kexxo